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马宏杰的博客

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布拉格的色彩The Colors of Prague   

2015-12-28 18:37:40|  分类: 默认分类 |  标签: |举报 |字号 订阅

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布拉格是一个色彩的城市,也许有人说布拉格有一百种色彩,我不否认,每一个到布拉格的人都会找到和心情相印证的色彩,我觉得色彩其实就是布拉格的精神。

Prague is a city of colors. Some people say it is a city of 100 colors, which I don’t deny. Everyone who visits Prague will find a color that corresponds to the way they feel. I think color is the spirit of Prague.

 布拉格的色彩 - 马宏杰 - 马宏杰的博客

    看过《布拉格精神》一书会对布拉格有一种新的思考。此书是克里玛的思考威权与民主的思想杰作。被捷克读者视为20世纪90年代捷克文学的代表。克里玛描述了这座由卡夫卡、哈谢克、哈维尔等人建立起来的精神家园,它“悖谬”、文化丰富、屡经灾难却始终乐观。

After reading the book The Spirit of Prague, one will have a very different view of the city. This work is Ivan Clima’s magnum opus of his thoughts on authoritarianism and democracy, and is widely regarded as representative of 1990s Czech literature. Clima describes the spiritual environment created by the likes of Franz Kafka, Jaroslav Hasek and Vaclav Havel, who held that Prague was a paradoxical city abounding with culture, and that it remained optimistic despite undergoing numerous disasters.

    布拉格我前后去过三次,每次都是泛泛的、匆匆的,及时住上几天、走过几日留下的都是遗憾。找时间再来一次,每次离开的时候我总这么想。再去住几天、再去百年老咖啡店约座和咖啡、住在伏尔塔瓦河河边的老房子里看外面的大教堂、看外面的彩色房屋、夕阳的的色彩渲染着着的城市。这些想法到现在也没有都实现,尤其是住在伏尔塔瓦河河边的老房子里需要几个月前的预约。

I’ve been to Prague three times, each of which never seemed long enough, and after staying there for several days, when leaving I’m filled with a sense of regret for not staying longer. Then, after every visit, I decide I’m going to come back again, to visit the century-old café, to stay at one of the old houses along the Vltava, from which I can see the big churches and colourful buildings, and the sunset as it drenches the city in its shades. I haven’t been able to do all of these yet, especially since the old houses on the river need to be booked several months in advance.

    李士飞,我捷克的一个朋友,他说:“明年你再来,我替你早早的预约一个伏尔塔瓦河河边的百年老客房子,但是你可不要自己来呵,自己住在那百年的老房子里没有情调呵”。

Li Shifei, a Chinese friend of mine who lives in the Czech Republic, tells me, “Come again next year, I’ll book a centennial house along the Vltava well in advance for you. But don’t come alone, it won’t have the atmosphere that way.”

    一座城市和一个人一样必须和它建立真正的联系,否则它仅仅剩下一个名字,就像我去过的日本的京都和奈良一样,它们分别是按照唐朝时期的西安和洛阳城建造的,至今保留着古老的建筑和风气,文化的魅力总是吸引着关注它文化的人和民族。而今天西安和洛阳已经由一座文化城市演变成一座功能城市。其实,中国的城市大都演变成功了能城市,几乎没有能逃出这样的恶运。

With a city, just like with a person, one has to establish a real connection, otherwise all that’s left is a name. I’ve been to the Japanese cities of Kyoto and Nara before, which were respectively designed based on the Tang dynasty cities of Xi’an and Luoyang, and to this day have preserved their ancient architecture and atmosphere, their cultural significance continuing to attract people from all over the world. On the other hand, the Xi’an and Luoyang of today have gradually transformed from cultural cities to functional cities. Actually, virtually all large cities in China have fallen victim to this ill fortune

    而布拉格之所以是一个神秘的和令人兴奋的城市,更多的是在于它的“自我”,这种“自我”在于它和捷克人的精神结合在一起。安逸、满足的住宅百年古宅里、不渴求当下的文化去冲击古存的生活、教堂墙壁上的一个弹孔、一发嵌在墙上没有爆炸的炮弹都没有人去干扰它的存在,看着这些捷克人会思索,这种思索也许正是捷克人百年养成的精神世界。这种内心的世界影响了整个布拉格。当下的文化并没有混淆古老的文化的存在,文化并存、并没有相互入侵,这在布拉格和欧洲都是随处可见。色彩艳丽古朴的布拉格,有着空寂的小巷、钟声响起的教堂、歌舞表演的夜总会、街头表演的艺术家,有室内外餐馆、小店铺、小咖啡馆、啤酒馆,文化人聚会的俱乐部、音乐家聚会的自助餐馆,自然还有脱衣舞、妓院、赌博等五光十色的都市奇人。

Exploring the beautiful and colorful ancient city of Prague, one will come by narrow empty alleys, churches with their bells ringing in their steeples, nightclubs with live dance performances, street artists, both indoor and outdoor restaurants, shops, cafés and bars, literary clubs, buffets frequented by musicians, and of course strip clubs, brothels, gambling houses and the like, further adding to the city’s mysticism.

    历史上很少有欧洲的战争不影响到捷克这个国家。德国的入侵、苏联的入侵。然而捷克人用了另外一种方式—也许是因为如此,这个城市更宁愿谈判,甚至投降,而不是反抗。但是里面参杂着一种永不服输的精神,一种永不放弃的精神。他们会对占领者说:“我们不喜欢你”,“请你们还是离开吧”,“你们的这种占领是卑鄙的”。这种不强烈性格政策(经常受到批评)使它文化和古城得以幸存,尽管不是没有付出代价。

Few wars in Europe’s history did not affect the Czech Republic. They were invaded by Germany, and later the Soviet Union. As opposed to resistance, the Czech people have tended to prefer negotiation, or even surrender. But the whole time they carry an attitude of never acknowledging defeat, of never giving up. They will say to their conquerors, “We don’t like you”, “We’d like you to leave”, or “This conquest of yours is despicable”. This kind of passive attitude (which is often criticized), has allowed the traditional culture and ancient architecture of the Czech Republic to remain highly intact, albeit not without a price.

    捷克人也做出过著名的抵抗。1942年5月27日,刚刚被派到布拉格不久的莱因哈德·特里斯坦·欧根·海德里希非常自信的只带了自己的贴身警卫开车从布拉格的王宫下山,而他不知道的是在下山路段的拐弯处二名叫库比什和加布契克的两名捷克伞兵从英国空降而来,在五名战友的帮助下,成功得到了海德里希活动规律。在汽车拐弯处用火箭炮、手榴弹突然发动袭击将其炸死。

Few wars in Europe’s history did not affect the Czech Republic. They were invaded by Germany, and later the Soviet Union. As opposed to resistance, the Czech people have tended to prefer negotiation, or even surrender. But the whole time they carry an attitude of never acknowledging defeat, of never giving up. They will say to their conquerors, “We don’t like you”, “We’d like you to leave”, or “This conquest of yours is despicable”. This kind of passive attitude (which is often criticized), has allowed the traditional culture and ancient architecture of the Czech Republic to remain highly intact, albeit not without a price.

infiltrating the other, a phenomenon which can be seen throughout Europe.

    游击队员分散逃跑,有五个跑进一座教堂,德国人把教堂包围了一星期,迫使他们走出教堂,在教堂外直接枪决,这座教堂的墙壁上至今还留有枪决这四人的弹痕。

After the guerrilla team fled, they hid inside a church, which German forces surrounded for a full week, until they forced them out. When the soldiers finally did leave the church, they were executed on the spot. The walls of the church still bear the bullets from the execution.

    希特勒当时有意培养海德里希为自己的接班人,在接到他的死讯后希特勒甚是恼火,1942年6月10日在海德里希下葬当天,希特勒利用一封来历不明的信件,一口咬定布拉格郊区利迪策村的村民支持了暗杀活动。于是在地图上的利迪策村画了一个圈,从此将利迪策村从地球上抹掉,利迪策村16岁以上的男性公民140余人和全部婴儿,并把妇女和38名儿童押往集中营全部屠杀。村里的房舍、建筑物均被烧毁,让他们为海德里希陪葬。

Adolf Hitler had wished to have Heydrich carry on his legacy, and was extremely furious when he received the news about Heydrich’s death. On June 10, 1942, the day of Heydrich’s funeral, Hitler received a letter from an unknown source, and issued an attack on the residents of a village on the outskirts of Prague, called Lidice. He then drew a circle around Lidice on his map, and proceeded to wipe the village off the face of the Earth. The several hundred village residents, including men, women, children and infants, were all sent to concentration camps to be executed, and all the houses and other buildings of the village were burned to the ground, to accompany Heydrich.

    1949年11月,国际民主妇女联合会在莫斯科举行理事会议。由捷克共产党代表提出,为了保障世界各国儿童的生存权、保健权和受教育权,为了改善儿童的生活,会议决定以利迪策村屠杀时的6月的第一天为国际儿童节。这便是六一国际儿童节的来历

In November, 1949, the Women’s International Democratic Federation held a board meeting in Moscow. Representatives of the Czech Communist Party stated that, in order to ensure the living rights, health care rights and education rights of children around the world, and in order to improve the lives of children, the committee planned to choose the first of June, based on the date of the Lidice massacre, as International Children’s Day. Today the holiday is still recognized around the world.

    这个村子我也去了,按照中国人所说四面环绕丘,坡地部有小河流过,是一个风水宝地,纪念馆里的影视资料将70年前的惨案豁然呈现出来之后,让来到这里的我彻底打破了这个风水概念,村里的雕塑是一个站着的女神拿着一颗红色的心在宽恕跪在地上的人,这个跪在地上的人是谁我不知道,是希特勒吗?他能得到宽恕吗?伍子胥说过一句话:“以德报怨,则何以报德”。该不该宽恕这些邪恶的人,这在中西方文化有着很大的不同,但是,当今世界已经不可能再发生这样的战争屠杀,也不允许这样的暴君出现,所以整个世界才是以宽容为德。虽说这里已经没有了村庄和人,但是依然保留着村子的名字、邮政编码、街道的名字。

I’ve visited this village, which, according to Chinese fengshui, is in a very good location, surrounded by hills, with a small river running through it. The memorial hall’s video footage from 70 years ago bears vestige of the horrendous act. My visit there completely destroyed my notion of fengshui; the sculpture standing in the village is a goddess holding a heart, forgiving someone kneeling on the ground in front of her. Could that person be Hitler? Can he really be forgiven? Ancient Chinese general and politician Wu Zixu once said, “If we repay evil deeds with good acts, then with what shall we repay good acts?” Whether or not these evil people should be forgiven is up to debate, and opinions on such matters differ greatly between the East and the West, but in our current society a similar travesty could not occur, nor can we allow another such tyrant to appear, thus the world tends to agree that we should show tolerance in such matters. Although the buildings and people of the village are all gone, the postal code and street names still exist.

    1945年5月5日,美军攻占了距离布拉格只有一小时路程的比尔森(而苏联军队尚在摩拉维亚边境),帕顿将军意图解放布拉格,但被艾森豪威尔将军阻止。理由是根据此前在雅尔塔会议上达成的秘密协议,波希米亚将由红军解放。1945年5月9日(德国正式投降的第二天),苏联坦克开进了布拉格。1948年2月,共产党接管了布拉格政权。之后很多年当中斯大林和苏联红军的雕塑随处可见,布拉格人甚至仿造了一座埃菲尔铁塔,但比它的原件缩小五倍。1955年,共产主义者树立了一座巨大的斯大林纪念碑,七年以后,他们自己又把它推翻了。1993年,捷克斯洛伐克分治后,布拉格成为捷克共和国的首都。捷克唯一彻底铲除的就是苏共时期的各种雕塑,因为捷克人不认为那是遗产。

On May 5, 1945, the US Army attacked the city of Pilsen, located only an hour’s drive from Prague. At this time Soviet Union Forces had yet to reach the border of Moravia. General Patton planned to liberate Prague, but his plans were ceased by General Eisenhower, the reason for which being that, according to the secret agreement made during the Yalta Conference, Bohemia was to be liberated by the Red Army instead. On May 9, 1945 (the day following Germany’s official surrender), Soviet tanks appeared in Prague. In February, 1948, the Communist Party took control of the city. For many years to follow, statues of Stalin and the Soviet Red Army could be seen throughout Prague, and a 1/5-sized Eiffel Tower was even built. In 1955, the Communist Party erected a particularly large Stalin memorial, which was toppled seven years later. In 1993, upon the division of Czechoslovakia, Prague became the capital of the Czech Republic. The only thing the city got rid of was the statues from the Soviet Communist era, which they believed were not historical relics.

    1939年3月,德国占领捷克斯洛伐克全境。捷克和摩拉维亚成为德国的保护国,面对这种历史上的占领,至今捷克人并不否认这也是对七百年历史文化的一种保护。

In March, 1939, Germany captured all of Czechoslovakia, which along with Moravia then came under German protection. In regard to this historical seizing, to this day the Czech people don’t deny that this was also a protection of their 700 years of history and culture.

    现在布拉格整座老城都是世界文化遗产,在这个面积只有78866平方公里国土上有着12处世界文化遗产。遗产对他们来说就是生活的保留,就向自己用久的物件有了感情、亲情。创造生活、保留生活、融合生活。捷克文化也是如此。这里捷克文化、德国文化、犹太文化在这里富有对应性的混合,这即是布拉格。

Now the entire old section of the city is a World Cultural Heritage, in a country with an area of 78,866 km2 and 12 such heritages. These heritages represent the preservation of their livelihoods, just like how one develops attachments and feelings to something they have used for a long time. The creation, preservation, and integration of life are integral parts of the culture of Prague, which in essence is a parallel fusion of Czech, German and Jewish culture.

    只有了这样一种包容才有了才华横溢的创造精神的凝聚,其中卓越的作家才能够释放出来才华,这即是布拉格。

Only with this level of tolerance could a people’s creative spirit be able to unite, and outstanding authors have the opportunity to give full fledge to their talent.

    精神在这里进行了文学化的舒展占居了主导地位的精神,只有这种精神才能孕育出卡卡夫这样的文学大师,这即是布拉格。

Here the spirit of the Czech people underwent a literary transformation and became their predominant spirit. Only under these circumstances could literary masters such as Kafka be born.

history and culture.

    本不想以观光者的身份出现,可又不得不已观光者的身份出现,因为,去了还想去。想进入到古老的建筑中去、色彩中去、宫殿里、城堡里、瓦茨拉夫广场、查理大桥、最漂亮的阶梯花园、富丽壮观的大厅里,小酒馆喝一杯捷克特有的碱性啤酒,这即是布拉格

Originally I didn’t want to visit Prague as a tourist, but I didn’t have much choice, since after going there I still want to. I want to immerse myself in the ancient buildings, the colors, to see the palaces, castles, Wenceslas Square, Charles Bridge, the beautiful tiered flower gardens, the spectacular halls, and the small pubs which offer unique Czech pilsners.

    布拉格现在还仍然诱惑着我,这个差不多有七百年历史已久持续着它的魅力和色彩,自由和生机勃勃往往是站在一起的,把华丽激情都藏在这个城市。我想这就是布拉格的精神。

The city of Prague still greatly attracts me, with its history of almost seven centuries, as it still retains its charm and colors, and freedom and vitality often coexist there, filling the city with splendor and passion. I believe this to be the spirit of Prague.


布拉格的色彩 - 马宏杰 - 马宏杰的博客
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魔术般的建筑超想像力
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诗意般的生活景观
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 建筑师古典的建筑风格
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 在居住者的保护下跨越时空到现在
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 圣维塔大教堂位于维而塔瓦河西岸的布拉格城堡内,是布拉格城堡最重要的地标之一,建筑将近700年历时
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 夜晚的布拉格浪漫才开始
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美丽的城市总是和美女分不开
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 童话般的情侣生活在这里的是那么的般配
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 和恋人相拥这座城市
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 孩子们的生活应该回到百年之前
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 捷克的美女应该是欧洲最美的,她们远远胜于法国的傲慢
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 古老的的电车依然是生活的一部分
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 总统府是对外开放的
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总统府门前的警卫帅的永远在吸引美女 
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 在总统府门前抗议是合法的,没有人敢无礼的把你按在地上抓起来
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 人们生活是自由的、可以表现的
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角落里的雕塑比得上你的年龄
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 这里的建筑一砖一瓦都不能不配
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 放荡不羁的生活和美满的生活同在,只是理解不一样
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 街头的美食站直吃也不会有城管干涉
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 这就是当年伏击海德里希的地方
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 教堂的上的弹孔就是枪杀伏击者的地方
布拉格的色彩 - 马宏杰 - 马宏杰的博客
 利迪策村里雕塑是一个站着的女神拿着一颗红色的心在宽恕跪在地上的人,跪在地上的人是希特勒吗?他能得到宽恕吗?
布拉格的色彩 - 马宏杰 - 马宏杰的博客
 利迪策村孩子们的雕像前摆满了各种玩具
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 利迪策村在屠杀中丧生的95名儿童
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 捷克的水晶也是世界有名的,世界上第一具水晶棺就出自这个国家
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 价格不菲的水晶都是皇室所用
布拉格的色彩 - 马宏杰 - 马宏杰的博客
 布拉格一户居民门上的把手都很有艺术性
布拉格的色彩 - 马宏杰 - 马宏杰的博客
这就是布拉格的魅力、看到的魅力、融入的魅力
布拉格的色彩 - 马宏杰 - 马宏杰的博客
查理桥,布拉格的中心,再见布拉格 
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